Here’s an update about the Crites Spring re-location kit for project LOGO. I’m finished installing the kit and over all I was very satisfied. Don’t get me wrong it is a lot of work and welding and cutting are required. But it has worked out well overall. As part of moving the rear springs in 3 inches I’m also doing a mini tub on the 66 Mustang. I have read most of the posts out there about doing the mini tub but after looking at it I decided to do it a little differently. Instead of welding in a 3 inch piece of metal I bought two new inner wheel wells and cut them to fit in the mini tub once everything was cut out. I can honestly say that this is a better way to go for the little bit of money the wheel wells cost. It leaves you with only one weld instead of two and you have brand new material to work with. Sorry the picture leaves a bit to be desired, once the inside is inished I’ll post some more but for now take my word for I think it turns out better this way and makes room for 3 inches of rubber!
We are in the process of doing a mini tub in the LOGO project car. As part of that we had to remove the leaf springs. What a pain in the neck! Early on we were able to remove the outside nut. We tried everything we could think of to get that bolt out. We tried an air hammer, JB Blaster and the biggest hammer and Chisel we could lay our hands on. The further we got into it we realized that the eye bolt was rusted to the spring steel bushing inside the front eye.
Our first shot at it was to try and cut right through the spring steel bushing. Take it from me that is next to impossible. Here’s what the bushing looks like with what remains of the bolt still in it.
When that failed we decided to get a little more aggressive but there was no way to cut the bot without first cutting through the spring steel. So from the outside we pounded the bracket out just enough to be able to get a Sawzall Blade in there. One you get it open enough it is pretty easy to cut if off. The problem is now there is no way to cut the bolt on the inside next to the frame because that bushing is right up against the frame rail.
The only way to move the leaf spring out away from the frame rail was to cut the head off the eye bolt from the inside. Again we used a Sawzall with the best quality blade we could find. It went surprisingly fast. Something around 10 minutes we had it cutoff. Once it is off you will find there is just a little bit of the bolt sticking out. Time to get out your big hammer and pound it through just enough to make room inside the frame rail to get you Sawzall in there and make the final cut.
Here’s what it looked like once we pounded it through just a bit. It was easy cutting from there just a lot of trail and error to find the right combination. One thing you want to make very sure of is that there is not tension on the leaf spring when you make those cuts. If there is you stand a good change of being hit by the spring when it releases. Be careful! Have Fun!
As we are working our way through project LOGO we of course took a look at the door hinges. In our case they weren’t all that bad and could have been repaired but we chose to just replace them with new ones. The drivers side was missing one piece and they are very reasonably priced anyway.
We had most of our front clip off so this was an easy time to do this job. It would be possible to do this job without taking off the front fender. However, for me at least I think you’d be time ahead to just take off. It’s a pretty tight space to work in and you’ll need some special tool like flexible ratchet extension to get it done with the fender on.
The lower hinge on the drivers side was the one that was broken as you can see here. Plus it had been painted so many times it just looked bad so we started by taking this one off. It is tempting to try and leave the door in place but take it from us it ends up a lot easier to just start by taking the door off first.
In order to do that you take out the four bolts that are in the door side of the hinge. This really is a two person job, you may get it off okay but you’ll be glad to have someone help you get it back on.
Once you get the door off you want to remove the hinge from the post side. This of course is easy to do but be aware that you need to remove your interior kick panels too. The bolts you are taking out are screwed through a floating plate inside the door jam. Here’s an inside view of the plate. It is made to float inside the jam so you can get more adjustment when installing the door. There is a similar plate on the inside of the door itself but it doesn’t fall out like this one does. Both the upper and lower hinges are the same set up.
Once you get the hinges and door off it is pretty easy to mount the new hinges mostly because you can just reach inside the door jam and hold the plate in place while you mount the hinge.
Once the hinges are mounted this we’ll be where you need a friend and some patience. We are assuming that you did take the fender off. You can now mount your door with a friends help holding it up while the door is in the open position. Make sure you don’t tighten the bolts, You’ll need them loose to get the door closed and adjusted.
With the door mounted and closed you can use some non scratching shims to help put it in place. Then tighten the bolts and give it a final test. Here’s some links to the hinges you need to do this job:
64 65 66 Mustang Upper Right Door Hinge
64 65 66 Mustang Lower Right Door Hinge
64 65 66 Mustang Upper Left Door Hinge
64 65 66 Mustang Lower Left Door Hinge
But, this is a very do-able job even with the fenders still on the car. Keep in mind as you’re looking at replacing these parts there are two different ones available for the car the standard Splash guards and the deluxe. The standard ones do not include the rubber edging. Here’s a link to that part on our website:
Mustang Splash Guard Left Front
Mustang Splash Guard Right Front
When we put the new fenders on you’ll see from this picture that the fender actually came with the standard splash shields already in place. It’s pretty hard to justify leaving the standard ones when the deluxe ones are so inexpensive. Plus they are so easy to install. From this picture you can see the front one is held on by just three screws. The original ones would have been 3/8 Hex head the ones on the aftermarket fender were Phillips heads. It took just a few seconds to take out the three Phillips heads screw and replace the splash shield.
You’ll see from this picture that the Deluxe Splash Shield offers a lot more protection. Even with the fender in place they are very easy to install. These particular ones were very high quality and you can see them on the link above.
The rear splash shield was a little bit more challenging but still only held on by 5, 3/8 head screws. It is hard to get a good camera angle to show you so I won’t waste you time with them. But if you’re in there you see them, four of the screws you take out for inside the fender well and the 5th one you remove from under the hood. Once you get them out it is just a matter pulling the old splash shield out and putting the new ones in.
I’ve mentioned this in previous post but I can’t say enough about the chassis bolt kit we are putting on this car. It is money well spent! Especially if you got a car in pieces or if you are doing a full restoration it is so nice to be able to walk over to a box in your shop and pick out a bag of screw that are clearly marked and ready to use. I can tell you from experience that it doesn’t take to many trips to the hardware store to pay of the nut and bolt kit.
Such and easy to install, inexpensive item can really help dress up under your hood! These Mustang chrome shock tower caps took less than an hour to install on our test car. With these simple instructions and common hand tools it is a fairly easy job.
1/2 inch socket
Medium Regular Screw Driver
Lug Wrench to remove the tire
Once that is done you can let the car back down while the tire is still on. Jack the car up again from under the lower control arm to put upward pressure back on the shock. Make sure you are using safe procedures, once all is secure remove the tire and wheel using a 13/16 lug wrench.
You can then remove the 2 1/2 bolts at the base of the shock to take it completely out. With just a little wiggling that shock can be removed from the top without taking the cap off.
Once the shock is out you’ll remove the three nuts that are connected to carriage bolts below. If you’re super lucky today that will be the last tear down step.
In our case however the carriage bolt turned underneath one the were loose. We just took a regular screw drive and held them up in place while the were taken the rest of the way off.
I won’t bore you with the steps to put it all back together at this point I’m sure you’ve got it. But this was an easy job overall, it took about a half hour a side. One thing I will mention is if you can, spray those nuts and bolts with JB Blaster before you get started and let them soak. We didn’t do that on the first side but did on the second and it made a big difference.
Please call us if we can be of any help at 888-697-8264!
Here’s a link to that product: http://www.superiormustangparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=C5ZZ-18A017-C
By for the hardest part of this job is the removal of the old radiator support. It takes a lot of careful drilling to preserve the maximum amount of material on the front aprons. The lower brace is a piece of cake because the material is so much thicker. An air chisel is almost a must for this job. Even once you drill the centers out of the spot welds you need it to separate the old radiator support. Once you have the old support out it is easy to get in there with a small grinder and smooth out the rough edges and take away the excess material.
Once is was all cleaned up I just drilled 1/4 holes in the support everywhere I wanted a “spot weld”. With the help of some trusty vice grip clamps I held it in place and used my MIG welder to fill in those spots.
I was excited to be able to use my hammer and dolly skills on the front apron where it had been hit at some time in the past. I’m quite sure I didn’t save any time by doing that, it would have been just as easy to replace it. But honestly it was fun! And it turned out very well if I don’t say so myself.
All totaled I put in about 4 hours in this job but keep in mind the front clip on this project is already off.
Coming up next, floor pans!
With our recent move to a larger location forward progress on Project LOGO has been hard to come by. But we are getting back at it this week. After we striped the front clip off we found some damage to the radiator support and the front Aprons we weren’t expecting. So, rather than try and fix it we decided to put a new radiator support on. Since I have delusion of what a good sheet metal man I am I’m going to try and fix the aprons on the car. I may very well decide to put new ones on. But we’ll have to see how my body hammer and dolly skills are.
Taking off these spot welded pieces can be a hassle. But the way I do it is to drill a small hole in the center of the spot weld and then use a large drill bit on that same hole and try to only drill through the metal I’m discarding. You can almost never get it to release all the way but once you get the drilling done you can use an air chisel to release the weld the rest of the way. The spot welds can be somewhat hard to see when you are getting started but I found a little track that helps. I used my little air sander with a 80 grit disc and went over the spot welds. The sander removes the paint around the spot welds but leaves the paint in the dimples. It makes it a heck of a lot easier to find those welds.
The radiator support that is there was structurally pretty sound it was just bent up, so I didn’t have to replace the cross member too. It’s available both with and with out the cross member. Here’s a link to the new radiator supports for a 64-66 Mustang with out the cross member.
Drilling out the spot welds is tedious work but it the best way to save as much material on the piece your trying to save. I just use the small hole to the piece you save to weld the new piece on.
As we are working through Our logo project it easy to get caught up in high profile parts like superchargers, wheels and body kits. But as I was walking through the shop today I noticed the bolt kit for the logo project was sitting there and I took a minute and opened it up and looked at it. I was so impressed! What a terrific idea. In the box is 35 individually labeled plastic bags. Each bag had nut bolts or screws already to go for our 66 Mustang project. Keep in mind these are not off the shelf hardware store stuff. Each nut bolt and screw are application specific for the 66 Mustang. The bolt kit I looked through was for the Chassis but there are many other kits like that for the Mustang.
Don’t get me wrong we are very good about labeling baggies as we take cars apart but to have brand new ones that you don’t have to clean or paint is amazing! Not to mention if you have managed to lose one or heaven forbid if you got the car in pieces and not all of them are there, this is the way to go!
So, not much flash in this post but if you’re working on a project you really should check out the Master bolt and screw kits. If nothing else they save you more time so you can work on your supercharger!
We were busting at the seams! Finally after a long search and a big move we are nearly settled in our in location, almost 3 times bigger than our old one! Hard to admit but it is almost full too! We now have an on-site shop for filming product installation videos and our warehouse is finally in the same building as the office. Life is so much easier!
In the next few weeks we will start releasing Mustang Parts installation videos on this blog and on our youtube channel. Now would be a great time to hear any suggestions for videos you might have. Our current project car is a 1966 Mustang so we’ll be doing those videos first and tracking the progress of our build.
A few of the first videos will be 200 6 cylinder to 289 V-8 swap. For all you horsepower nuts we’ll be using a supercharged 347 for our replacement. It will be backed up by a C-4 transmission and a narrowed 9″ rear end.
This project will also have mini tubs on the back to accommodate some bigger tires and a drum to disc brake conversion. For this project we’ll also be going through the interior including upholstery, dash pad, carpet and headliner.
This will be totally interactive, we are glad to answer any questions you may have, in fact we encourage them!
With such a similar look it is surprising how different the 1966 Mustang is from the 1965 model. From the front of the car it is easy to see that the honey comb grill is gone in favor of the extrude look. On the GT model the extruded bars are painted black. Also up front is the polished metal strip that became standard in 66, it was only an option in 65. Along with that the side bars off the pony corral are also missing. From the side of the car you will notice that the simulated air scoop now has three bars.
On the inside every Mustang has a five instrument bezel even if it is not a GT. The dash pad was re-shaped too. The AM Radio / 8 track player was an option in 66 and if you got the 8 track you also got upgraded speakers that were mounted in each door. Even more rare was the AM/FM radio that was available.
In Mid year 1965 the Rally pac was introduced and was available in 66 too but a new lower profile version was installed. The inside shift lever is a detail that is often missed, the 3 speed shifter had a plain chrome trim ring that surrounded the rubber shift boot. But the 4 speed shifter trim was black and chrome around the rubber boot.
A welcome change in 66 was the addition of knit-weaved vinyl inserts in the seating surface of both the front and rear seats. In 65 they were all plain vinyl, the knit weave was much nicer on those hot days! The deluxe interior or often called the Pony interior was unchanged from 1965.
On the exterior the change in the styled steel wheel has always been a head scratcher for me. Instead of keeping the barrel of the wheel chrome as it had been previously the changes to black in 66 with a chrome trim ring. I can only think that it must have been less expensive to produce this new wheel but for me it seems like it would cost more to make the wheel that way. The Styled Steel wheel was only available in 14 inch in 1966. Just as a side note I found it interesting that white wall tires were and option in 66 but the same cost as the black wall.
in 1966 there was 4 engine choices but 3 of them were 289 cubic inches. The car still comes stock with the 200 six but the 289 2v V-8, 289 4v V-8 and 289 Hi-Po V-8.
This is just a summary and doesn’t cover all the options and changes just some high lights. Please feel free to call us any time, we are glad to answer questions.