Victory! The Project LOGO Radiator support is in an we saved the front apron.
By for the hardest part of this job is the removal of the old radiator support. It takes a lot of careful drilling to preserve the maximum amount of material on the front aprons. The lower brace is a piece of cake because the material is so much thicker. An air chisel is almost a must for this job. Even once you drill the centers out of the spot welds you need it to separate the old radiator support. Once you have the old support out it is easy to get in there with a small grinder and smooth out the rough edges and take away the excess material.
Once is was all cleaned up I just drilled 1/4 holes in the support everywhere I wanted a “spot weld”. With the help of some trusty vice grip clamps I held it in place and used my MIG welder to fill in those spots.
I was excited to be able to use my hammer and dolly skills on the front apron where it had been hit at some time in the past. I’m quite sure I didn’t save any time by doing that, it would have been just as easy to replace it. But honestly it was fun! And it turned out very well if I don’t say so myself.
All totaled I put in about 4 hours in this job but keep in mind the front clip on this project is already off.
Coming up next, floor pans!
With our recent move to a larger location forward progress on Project LOGO has been hard to come by. But we are getting back at it this week. After we striped the front clip off we found some damage to the radiator support and the front Aprons we weren’t expecting. So, rather than try and fix it we decided to put a new radiator support on. Since I have delusion of what a good sheet metal man I am I’m going to try and fix the aprons on the car. I may very well decide to put new ones on. But we’ll have to see how my body hammer and dolly skills are.
Taking off these spot welded pieces can be a hassle. But the way I do it is to drill a small hole in the center of the spot weld and then use a large drill bit on that same hole and try to only drill through the metal I’m discarding. You can almost never get it to release all the way but once you get the drilling done you can use an air chisel to release the weld the rest of the way. The spot welds can be somewhat hard to see when you are getting started but I found a little track that helps. I used my little air sander with a 80 grit disc and went over the spot welds. The sander removes the paint around the spot welds but leaves the paint in the dimples. It makes it a heck of a lot easier to find those welds.
The radiator support that is there was structurally pretty sound it was just bent up, so I didn’t have to replace the cross member too. It’s available both with and with out the cross member. Here’s a link to the new radiator supports for a 64-66 Mustang with out the cross member.
Drilling out the spot welds is tedious work but it the best way to save as much material on the piece your trying to save. I just use the small hole to the piece you save to weld the new piece on.
As we are working through Our logo project it easy to get caught up in high profile parts like superchargers, wheels and body kits. But as I was walking through the shop today I noticed the bolt kit for the logo project was sitting there and I took a minute and opened it up and looked at it. I was so impressed! What a terrific idea. In the box is 35 individually labeled plastic bags. Each bag had nut bolts or screws already to go for our 66 Mustang project. Keep in mind these are not off the shelf hardware store stuff. Each nut bolt and screw are application specific for the 66 Mustang. The bolt kit I looked through was for the Chassis but there are many other kits like that for the Mustang.
Don’t get me wrong we are very good about labeling baggies as we take cars apart but to have brand new ones that you don’t have to clean or paint is amazing! Not to mention if you have managed to lose one or heaven forbid if you got the car in pieces and not all of them are there, this is the way to go!
So, not much flash in this post but if you’re working on a project you really should check out the Master bolt and screw kits. If nothing else they save you more time so you can work on your supercharger!
66 Mustang Bolt kit
We were busting at the seams! Finally after a long search and a big move we are nearly settled in our in location, almost 3 times bigger than our old one! Hard to admit but it is almost full too! We now have an on-site shop for filming product installation videos and our warehouse is finally in the same building as the office. Life is so much easier!
In the next few weeks we will start releasing Mustang Parts installation videos on this blog and on our youtube channel. Now would be a great time to hear any suggestions for videos you might have. Our current project car is a 1966 Mustang so we’ll be doing those videos first and tracking the progress of our build.
A few of the first videos will be 200 6 cylinder to 289 V-8 swap. For all you horsepower nuts we’ll be using a supercharged 347 for our replacement. It will be backed up by a C-4 transmission and a narrowed 9″ rear end.
This project will also have mini tubs on the back to accommodate some bigger tires and a drum to disc brake conversion. For this project we’ll also be going through the interior including upholstery, dash pad, carpet and headliner.
This will be totally interactive, we are glad to answer any questions you may have, in fact we encourage them!
With such a similar look it is surprising how different the 1966 Mustang is from the 1965 model. From the front of the car it is easy to see that the honey comb grill is gone in favor of the extrude look. On the GT model the extruded bars are painted black. Also up front is the polished metal strip that became standard in 66, it was only an option in 65. Along with that the side bars off the pony corral are also missing. From the side of the car you will notice that the simulated air scoop now has three bars.
On the inside every Mustang has a five instrument bezel even if it is not a GT. The dash pad was re-shaped too. The AM Radio / 8 track player was an option in 66 and if you got the 8 track you also got upgraded speakers that were mounted in each door. Even more rare was the AM/FM radio that was available.
In Mid year 1965 the Rally pac was introduced and was available in 66 too but a new lower profile version was installed. The inside shift lever is a detail that is often missed, the 3 speed shifter had a plain chrome trim ring that surrounded the rubber shift boot. But the 4 speed shifter trim was black and chrome around the rubber boot.
A welcome change in 66 was the addition of knit-weaved vinyl inserts in the seating surface of both the front and rear seats. In 65 they were all plain vinyl, the knit weave was much nicer on those hot days! The deluxe interior or often called the Pony interior was unchanged from 1965.
On the exterior the change in the styled steel wheel has always been a head scratcher for me. Instead of keeping the barrel of the wheel chrome as it had been previously the changes to black in 66 with a chrome trim ring. I can only think that it must have been less expensive to produce this new wheel but for me it seems like it would cost more to make the wheel that way. The Styled Steel wheel was only available in 14 inch in 1966. Just as a side note I found it interesting that white wall tires were and option in 66 but the same cost as the black wall.
in 1966 there was 4 engine choices but 3 of them were 289 cubic inches. The car still comes stock with the 200 six but the 289 2v V-8, 289 4v V-8 and 289 Hi-Po V-8.
This is just a summary and doesn’t cover all the options and changes just some high lights. Please feel free to call us any time, we are glad to answer questions.
Mustang the begining and the next generation. Good news for Mustang Parts Companies.: http://EzineArticles.com/7498435
We have sponsored our share of Mustang events over the years. Not to mention all the ones we have just attended. But I’d like to get some feedback from our customers what shows / gatherings are the best.
Last year we sponsored the Sturgis Mustang Rally and I’m sure we’ll be doing that again. It’s extremely well organized and in a fun place to go. Beautiful cars and lots of events. I would say to this point it is the best I’ve been to, so the bar is set pretty high.
Mustang events have become so much more than car shows, with many now having drag races, burnout competitions, dinners, dances and the list goes on. But what do you think? Name the best show in America and tell me why. We are considering expanding how many shows we sponsor this year and we need some ideas.
One thing that might be helpful to us is to tell us what kind of cars go and how many. New, classic, original, modified?
By letting us know you may help that gathering expand even more!
Second only to disc brake conversion, the power steering conversion is the most popular. With good reason! I don’t think anyone would argue that Manual steering classic Mustangs are a handful at slow speeds. It is possible to use original style parts to convert but for years we have found that the conversion parts are nearly impossible to find and if you they can be cost prohibitive.
Rack and pinion systems used to be a good alternative but very expensive and hard to install. Literally for years we looked for a solution to the steering problem that made sense from a performance stand point, ease of installation and cost. Finally about 18 months we started selling the integral power steering conversion for the classic Mustang. The results have been excellent!
Don’t get me wrong when you are talking about a Power Steering Conversion for a Classic Mustang there is no easy installation. After all the steering shaft must be cut and shortened no matter what type of conversion you do but for overall ease of installation the integral box system wins by a mile. Most kits include the power steering pump, mounting brackets, hoses, rag joint and of course the power steering box.
To put it mildly the result we have seen are much better. You avoid the leaking control valves and hoses. Plus you done have to deal with ram, not even mentioning the parts are so hard to find. In interest of full disclosure we still sell the rack and pinion kits and the original parts (when we can find them) but it has come to the point if a customer calls to order the conversion parts we most always suggest they look at the integral power steering conversion for classic Mustang.
So, my overall advise to look into a power steering conversion you will be glad you did. Your arms will thank you!
Hope you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving! Please checkout the website Friday for special deals!
Sometimes we get excited about the little things! For many years we sold Mustang fender covers mostly for gifts. They were discontinued a few years ago and we have had lots of requests for them but never have been able to get any more.
They are available again! There is a very limited amount, as of Friday there was only 285 available, so those will go fast and we expect them to sell out.
Here’s a link to the product: